unisub™ cutting/machining information
hardboard - 1/8" and 1/4" hardboard, coated
(1) or (2) sides
saws - conventional carbide tipped woodworking saw blades work
well. can
also be cut on tabletop safety saw with smaller diameter, multiple tooth
blades.
laser engravers - cuts well with 25 watt system, faster with 50
watt
system.
routers - a bull-nose or slightly rounded profile is suggested
for all
hardboard that has been straight cut with a saw, as the edges are very
vulnerable to damage and chipping. however, this is not necessary for
laser
cut items as the edge generated by the heat "seals" the paper
fibers.
shearers - not recommended.
medium density fiberboard - 1/4" - 1 1/4"
m.d.f., coated (1) or (2) sides
saws - conventional carbide tipped woodworking saw blades work
well.
laser engravers - cuts ok with 35 watt system, but 100 watt recommended.
routers - carbide tipped, fluted down-shear bit works best to
minimize
chipping.
shearers - not recommended.
fiberglass reinforced plastic - .090 nominal, +/-
.015 thickness tolerance
saws - same as hardboard.
laser engravers - not recommended.
routers - solid carbide 2 - flute straight cutter. a bull-nose
or slightly
rounded profile is suggested on (frp) that has been cut with a saw or
router as the edges are vulnerable to chipping. this would not be necessary
for parts that are covered or encapsulated (i.e. desk name plate that
slides into a frame).
shearers - not recommended.
aluminum - .025 and .045 (add .005 for coating) (1)
side only
shearers - shear cut only. keep edge sharp to minimize chipping.
phenolic laminate - .050 coated (1) side only
saws - same as hardboard.
laser engravers - not recommended.
routers - only when laminated to substrate such as particleboard
or
fiberboard, otherwise vulnerable to chipping.
shearers - not recommended.
corner punch - can be used.
cement board - 8mm coated (1) side only
water-jet cutting system - the only cutting/machining method
recommended is water-jet.
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